Identify diagram: car

Showing posts with label car. Show all posts

Friday, 17 May 2013

Car Subwoofer filter using OP Amp IC TL072

Here is the circuit diagram of simple and easy subwoofer filter which will be operated from a 12V DC supply. Such a circuit is incredibly helpful in Car subwoofer applications. The circuit is nothing however a low pass filter whose pass frequency will be adjusted between 60 to 160 Hz.

The circuit is intended round the TL072 twin BIFET opamp IC. Out of the 2 opamps within the chip, IC1A is wired as a buffer. The left and right audio inputs when mixing is fed to the input of the IC1A using the DPDT switch S1. Switch S1 is that the section control switch which might be used to create the subwoofer in section with different speakers.

When S1 is in position {2, 180 degree phase shift are induced.POT R7 will be used for controlling the level. IC1B forms the low pass filter whose pass frequency will be controlled by adjusting the twin gang POT R13.

Monday, 13 May 2013

Car Bulb Flasher

This astonishingly simple circuit allows one or two powerful 12V 21W car bulbs to be driven in flashing mode by means of a power MosFet. Devices of this kind are particularly suited for road, traffic and yard alerts and in all cases where mains supply are not available but a powerful flashing light are yet necessary.

Tuesday, 2 April 2013

How to Installation A Car Stereo

Car Stereo Installation Guide - Want to save some money? Ever wonder if you could do a car stereo installation yourself? Yes, you can do it yourself! Go ahead, spend that money on your hardware! Don’t spend it on labor. Besides, doing a car stereo installation yourself can be a very rewarding experience, not to mention you can learn a lot from it too. Nothing beats the feeling of seeing your “creation” in action, running smoothly and perfectly.

But be very careful, you really won’t want to damage your expensive hardware. Well, most car audio hardware are no-brainers to install, you’d find that most of the time the parts have specially shaped sockets and slots etc. and would only fit where it’s supposed to be installed. Still, it’s best to proceed methodically.

In a car stereo installation, you have to determine what kind of rig you’re going to put into your vehicle. If you’re a beginner, it’s best you do a car stereo installation if it’s just a simple system. You may want to leave the complicated stuff to the professionals, like installing delicate equipment like LCD panels, motorized parts etc. especially if it requires the creation of custom panels and such.

Head units are one of the easiest to do in a car stereo installation. Fortunately, most units follow the same size standards (DIN). In many cars, once the factory radio is removed the aftermarket radio will fit in the hole. In many other cars, a kit is needed if the factory hole is too big, or not deep enough. In some cases the dash has to be cut. Any car stereo store should have kits required for installation.

There are two types of mounting in a car stereo installation. ISO mounting is when the radio can be screwed to existing factory radio brackets, such as in most Japanese cars. Ring mounting is when an aftermarket radio comes with a metal ring that gets mounted to the factory radio hole or aftermarket kit via bendable tabs. In many cars, dash and trim rings have to be filed to enlarge the radio hole. Once the ring is installed, the radio slides in and is held by snaps. In most cases, special tools are required to remove the radio.

Speakers are very critical in a car stereo installation. No matter how expensive your speakers are, if they are not properly installed, the sound will not be up to par.

In a simple car stereo installation, you’ll probably be using speakers that fit into a factory location. Just make sure there are no gaps or holes. Sometimes building a wood or fiberglass baffle helps reduce holes and gives you much better sound. But always be careful when using power tools around speakers. Car stereo installation warranties usually dont cover holes in speakers.

For unconventional speaker locations, sometimes metal has to be cut. You might want to leave this to the professionals, tools like plasma cutters and pneumatics drills are required. But if you’re going to insist, a pair of metal snips (left and right cut) will do.

A car stereo installation has to put up with vibrations and other noise sources in its environment. Even though it is impossible to eliminate these completely, there are products that will greatly decrease the noise and rattling, particularly on non-luxury cars. Liners, sprays and adhesive strips and even carpeting applied onto the panels can make a world of difference.

Tuesday, 26 March 2013

Car Alarm Sound Booster

For car alarms, emphasis should be put on hearing the audible alert and identifying it as belonging to your wheels. Unfortunately, modern car alarm systems seem to have more or less the same alarm sound especially if they are from the same brand. Also, to comply with legal noise restrictions, the alarm sound is not always loud enough to be heard if the car is parked down the road.

Simple Car Alarm Sound Booster Circuit Diagram

The circuit shown here is designed to help boost the alarm sound by also activating the cars horn(s) when the alarm goes off. lnternally the car alarm system often provides a signal that activates the (optional) engine immobilizer and/or volume (ultrasound) sensors. This signal usually goes Low upon sys-tem triggering and high again when the alarm system is deactivated.

The alarm activation signal is fed to the circuit through Dl . When in idle state, T1 s gate is High and consequently the FET conducts, keeping power FET T2 firmly switched off. When the system gets an active low signal, T1 switches off allowing timing capacitor C2 to charge via R2. About 15 seconds later, when the voltage across C2 is high enough, T2 starts to conduct and relay RE1 is energized. This, in turn, provides the required path for the lights flashing signal to energize RE2 and feed battery power to the cars horn(s).

When the alarm system is turned off the activation signal returns to High. T1 starts to conduct and rapidly discharges C2 via R3. T2 is then cut off and REl is de-energized. Diode D2 suppresses back EMF from REl. The circuit draws less than 2 mA when idling. When activated the circuits current consumption is virtually that of the RE1 coil. RE1 is any simple SPST or SPDT relay, capable of switching about 0.5 A (at 12 V). The coil rating is for 12 VDC and a current requirement as low as you can find. Fuse F1 should be a slow blow type and rated about twice RE1s coil current.

The B5.170 in position T2 can sink a continuous current of about 0.5 A. However, a value of 1.2 A pulsed is specified by Fairchild for their devices. To keep the FETs d-s current due to C2 discharging within safe limits, R2 may be increased, C2 decreased and R3 increased, all proportionally. A factor of 2 will keep the FET out of harms way with maybe a slight change in the 15-second delay and the sensitivity of the circuit. C1 is used as a smoothing capacitor and F2 should be rated in accordance with the horn(s) maximum current draw.

Caution. The installation and use of this circuit may be subject to legal restrictions in your country, state or area.

Source: http://www.ecircuitslab.com/2012/06/simple-car-alarm-sound-booster.html