Showing posts with label stereo. Show all posts
Showing posts with label stereo. Show all posts
Friday, 19 September 2014
1 W Home Stereo Amplifier Circuits Diagram
This is a one watt home stereo amplifier module project using the KA2209 IC from Samsung, which is equivalent to the TDA2822. It operates from 3-12V DC & will work from a battery since the dormant current drain is low. It requires no heat sink for normal use. The input & output are both ground referenced. Maximum output will be obtained with a 12V power supply & 8 ohm speaker, however it is suitable for driving headphones from a supply as low as 3V.
The Specifications of the home stereo amplifier :
The Specifications of the home stereo amplifier :
D.C. input : 3 – 12 V at 200 – 500 mA max
Idle current : approx. 10 mA
Power output : > 1 Watt max. 4-8 ohms, 12V DC
Freq. Resp. : approx. 40 Hz to 200 kHz, 8 ohm, G=10
THD : < 1 % @ 750 mW, 4-8 ohm, 12V
Gain : approx. x10 (20 dB) OR x100 (40dB)
S/N ratio : > 80 dB, G = 20 dB
Sensitivity : < 300 mV, G = 20 dB
Input Impedance : approx. 10 k ohm
Idle current : approx. 10 mA
Power output : > 1 Watt max. 4-8 ohms, 12V DC
Freq. Resp. : approx. 40 Hz to 200 kHz, 8 ohm, G=10
THD : < 1 % @ 750 mW, 4-8 ohm, 12V
Gain : approx. x10 (20 dB) OR x100 (40dB)
S/N ratio : > 80 dB, G = 20 dB
Sensitivity : < 300 mV, G = 20 dB
Input Impedance : approx. 10 k ohm
Description
The gain is adjustable from ten to 100, i.e. twenty to 40 dB. Start with feedback resistors R1 and R3 of 1k ohm, this will give a gain of ten which ought to be adequate for most applications. In case you need more gain, you can remove resistors R1 and R3.This will give a gain of about 100, or 40 dB.The input attenuation can be adjusted by the potentiometer which can be used as a volume control. The IC gain ought to be kept as low as necessary to accomplish full output, with the in put potentiometer and your signal source at maximum.
1 W Home Stereo Amplifier Circuit Diagram

1 W Home Stereo Amplifier Circuit Diagram

Voltage Gain = 1+ R1/R2 = 1+R3/R4, however the maximum gain with no outside feedback is about 100, or 40dB. (GdB = 20log Gv)
This will keep the signal to noise ratio as high as feasible. Additional gain provided by the amplifier will reduce the S/N ratio by a similar amount, since the input noise figure is constant. Other values for R1 and R3 of between 1k and 10k ohm can be used if an intermediate gain level is necessary.
This will keep the signal to noise ratio as high as feasible. Additional gain provided by the amplifier will reduce the S/N ratio by a similar amount, since the input noise figure is constant. Other values for R1 and R3 of between 1k and 10k ohm can be used if an intermediate gain level is necessary.
If driving a pair of headphones, you may also need a 100 ohm resistor in series with each output to reduce the output level, depending on headphone impedance & sensitivity. Make positive you start with the volume right down to check. Numerous headphones may be driven from the amplifier in the event you wish, since most headphones have at least 16 ohm impedance, or more often 32 ohm.
There are only a few outside parts, the IC contains most of the necessary circuitry. R1,R2 and R3,R4 are the feedback resistors. C1 provides power supply decoupling. C2 and C3 are the input coupling capacitors, which block any DC that might-be present on the inputs. C4,C5 block DC in the feed back circuit from the inverting inputs, and C6,C7 are the output coupling capacitors. C8, R5 and C9,R6 act as Nobel networks providing a high frequency load to maintain stability at frequencies where loud speaker inductive reactant may become excessive. The pot provides adjustable input level attenuation.

Wednesday, 29 May 2013
6 Watt stereo power amplifier schematic
Basiccally,this
amplifier works with the IC, which is where ic is associated with
several other components in the supply and use DC voltage, which
corresponds to the needs of IC above course on the circuit schematic.
For IC , stands intregated circuit used is ic LM379 which has a maximum
6 Watt stereo output. This IC manufactered by NS and with SDIP-14
package. While other components needed in the circuit schematic , you
can see components of the list below.

Resistor
R1___________________2K
R2___________________2K
R3___________________33K
R4___________________33K
R5___________________1M
R6___________________1M
R7___________________10R 2W
R8___________________10R 2W
Capacitor
C1___________________4.7uF
C2___________________4.7uF
C3___________________470uF
C4___________________470uF
C5___________________470uF
C6___________________100n
C7___________________100n
IC
IC1___________________LM379
Tuesday, 2 April 2013
How to Installation A Car Stereo
Car Stereo Installation Guide - Want to save some money? Ever wonder if you could do a car stereo installation yourself? Yes, you can do it yourself! Go ahead, spend that money on your hardware! Don’t spend it on labor. Besides, doing a car stereo installation yourself can be a very rewarding experience, not to mention you can learn a lot from it too. Nothing beats the feeling of seeing your “creation” in action, running smoothly and perfectly.

But be very careful, you really won’t want to damage your expensive hardware. Well, most car audio hardware are no-brainers to install, you’d find that most of the time the parts have specially shaped sockets and slots etc. and would only fit where it’s supposed to be installed. Still, it’s best to proceed methodically.
In a car stereo installation, you have to determine what kind of rig you’re going to put into your vehicle. If you’re a beginner, it’s best you do a car stereo installation if it’s just a simple system. You may want to leave the complicated stuff to the professionals, like installing delicate equipment like LCD panels, motorized parts etc. especially if it requires the creation of custom panels and such.
Head units are one of the easiest to do in a car stereo installation. Fortunately, most units follow the same size standards (DIN). In many cars, once the factory radio is removed the aftermarket radio will fit in the hole. In many other cars, a kit is needed if the factory hole is too big, or not deep enough. In some cases the dash has to be cut. Any car stereo store should have kits required for installation.
There are two types of mounting in a car stereo installation. ISO mounting is when the radio can be screwed to existing factory radio brackets, such as in most Japanese cars. Ring mounting is when an aftermarket radio comes with a metal ring that gets mounted to the factory radio hole or aftermarket kit via bendable tabs. In many cars, dash and trim rings have to be filed to enlarge the radio hole. Once the ring is installed, the radio slides in and is held by snaps. In most cases, special tools are required to remove the radio.
Speakers are very critical in a car stereo installation. No matter how expensive your speakers are, if they are not properly installed, the sound will not be up to par.
In a simple car stereo installation, you’ll probably be using speakers that fit into a factory location. Just make sure there are no gaps or holes. Sometimes building a wood or fiberglass baffle helps reduce holes and gives you much better sound. But always be careful when using power tools around speakers. Car stereo installation warranties usually dont cover holes in speakers.
For unconventional speaker locations, sometimes metal has to be cut. You might want to leave this to the professionals, tools like plasma cutters and pneumatics drills are required. But if you’re going to insist, a pair of metal snips (left and right cut) will do.
A car stereo installation has to put up with vibrations and other noise sources in its environment. Even though it is impossible to eliminate these completely, there are products that will greatly decrease the noise and rattling, particularly on non-luxury cars. Liners, sprays and adhesive strips and even carpeting applied onto the panels can make a world of difference.
Wednesday, 27 March 2013
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